Floro Fighting Systems

I have received a lot of positive feedback when I posted on my Essential Protective Gear.

So I though I would continue the series by showing you how I make my Sparring Knives….or “Boffers” as we prefer to call them.

The first image shows the items that make up our Boffer. It consists of a “Pool Noodle” foam cylinder (make sure you get the ones with the hole in the center. I bought a whole lot of noodles once only to notice that the centers were solid!?!?@###!!!

The other item is a plastic composite rod……it is also hollow. PVC rods are not recommended; as they can shatter into dangerous shards, which could potentially make it into a dangerous weapon. This particular rod is supplied to me by a friend John, who works in the “Hydraulics” industry.

The writing on the side of the rod is as follows:

26723 Vinidex MAXAIR Compressed Air Pipe S1 DN 25X3 5 SDR7 4 PN25.

I’m not sure how easy it is to get…….but if you cannot find it, Rattan cane which is light, can be a good substitute.

The lighter the sparring equipment the better, as you don’t want to translate the heavier weapons to “energy” when you are starting to hit hard and fast. The Rattan will only work for knives. If you try to do the same with sticks, it will hit too hard.

My philosophy on sparring is to wear minimal gear. We have found that by using our Boffers we can get away with just wearing helmet and gloves; there is no need for body armour.

Our preference for this is twofold:

1) It is a lot cheaper for my students, as they don’t have to outlay a lot for protective gear.

2) The lack of body armour means that there is still respect for the weapon.

(I have seen countless times were combatants are wearing so much armour, that all they concentrate on is striking their opponent as many times and as hard as possible – there is no attempt to defend any of the attacks, and it becomes a “caveman” event).

With minimal armour, you will need to develop effective defensive and counter attack skills. This is very important in a realistic scenario where “double kills” with weapons are a real possibility.

Other substitutes you can use for the “core” rod in your Boffer can be – cut down fishing rod blanks or cut down ski poles. The important factor is that they do not break or shatter into sharp objects, and that it is light in weight.

So the construction of the F.F.S. Boffer is as follows:

Image B1 – Cut the Blue Rod into a length of 250mm (this can be changed to suit your personal preference). Cut the foam Pool Noodle to length of about 150mm (again this can be changed).

Image B2 – Shows how much you should insert the Blue Rod into the Pool Noodle.

Note* Make sure you leave a gap of about 40mm from the tip of the pool noodle to the tip of the blue rod. (If you install the rod right up to the tip of the pool noodle, then expect injuries during sparring.)

Image B3 – Slice an off cut from a separate foam noodle, and stuff that in the gap you left at the tip of the Boffer. This will act as a cushion, and help absorb shock.

Image B4 – Now wrap the entire Boffer in gaff tape.

Note* It is important not to tape the Boffer tightly.

Make sure you just “pat down” the gaff tape on the surface.

I usually just put a single layer of tape on.

(If you bind it tightly it will more likely to injure your opponent during sparring.)

Notice that I tape the “blade” of the Boffer along its length rather than across.

Image B5 – I then finish the Boffer by taping Ice Hockey Grip Tape on the handle.

Image B6 – Voila……an F.F.S. Sparring Boffer!

Ray Floro

I’m always asked. “What training equipment do you use”?

An excellent question, as I’ve virtually tried out every gear on the market.

But for the last decade, I have settled on “tools” that I could not do without. Here are my ESSENTIAL GEAR for training and teaching with my private students and instructors.

This gear allows us to go a bit harder amongst ourselves.

HELMET Fig 1 Nike Bauer 1500 Hockey Helmet w/ Cage

This is Bauer’s Cheapest model. I’ve tried all their models, and I have to say that the more expensive models have no significant advantage to this basic model. Maybe it does when you are a professional hockey player. But for the short time you have the helmet on in the training we do, there is no perceived benefits.

Do not overly tighten the adjustment screws. If you over tighten, then the stress points where the screws are will crack. The helmet will last longer when you just tighten it to the point that it’s just firming up, and just re-tighten regularly. AND if you’re going to do it this way, make sure you DO CHECK the screws, or else it will loosen and fall out. Never to be found.

Another tip is that I take off the chin strap. When sparring comes to grappling range, it’s better to have your helmet yanked off rather than your head yanked off because the chin strap is garroting you.

HELMET CAGE Fig 2 Bauer 500 Hockey Helmet Cage

When I’m buying helmets for students, I just normally buy it with the standard cage it comes with as a package (cheaper price is usually the reason).

But FOR MY PERSONAL USE, I just LOVE the Bauer 500 Hockey Cage. I like it so much that I have TWO spares. But the one I’ve been using, I’ve had for about 7 years….it has outlived about 4 helmets. I just transfer my cage to a new helmet.

This cage has been with me all over the world……..from teaching the US and Korean Special Forces in Korea, all around the USA, and all around Australia.

It is workhorse that cannot be broken or killed. I’ve told my wife that when I die, this cage will go on top of my casket.

I have tried cages where it is made out of “Perspex” type of material. At first glance, it is perfect, as some people can’t get used to looking through metal bars……..however, I’ve found that after a while, the plastic will be riddled with scratches, and in cold weather, it ALWAYS fogs up. Not my personal choice.

GLOVES Fig 3 Nike Bauer Vapor V Senior Hockey Gloves

Again, this is Bauer’s cheapest model. I’ve tried their most expensive, but found them too stiff and takes too long to break in. This model only takes two or three lessons, and your good to go.

I use Size 13’s as I found the bigger size gives me some indirect protection to my wrists and forearm. When you teach a few hours a day, you need all the protection you can get.

One of my guys bought the JUNIOR model, as it provides adequate protection, but is less cumbersome. In fact, next time I need to change my gloves over……I’ll be trying out this size.

These are my Essential Protective Gear…………I’ll be doing future blogs where I cover how I make my training knives and sticks……

I use a different setup for student seminars that works perfectly for the job required whilst keeping safety in mind.

More about that later…..

Ray Floro

Last weekend I visited an exhibition being held at the Police and Justice Museum in Sydney.

For those in Australia and/or for those about to visit Sydney, the museum is at Circular Quay and walking distance from The Rocks and Opera House.

The exhibition was called ‘Sydney’s Pubs: Liquor, Larrikins & the Law’.
Although I thought the exhibition a little light on information and “toys” – I soon left it to ogle over the antique police batons – one section really surprised me. It was the use of cut throat razors by the major crime gangs of the 1920s and 30s.

The two formidable Gang Leaders which emerged from the Era was Tilly Devine and Kate Leigh; ex-prostitutes who rose to the status of Madam of their own brothel, and then crime boss during the 1920s and 30s – very tough women who ran the stand-over men.

What surprised me even more is that they ran their gangs from pubs in the suburb of Darlinghurst, (my weekend haunt for brunch) which, due to the number of slashings a year (up to 300), was commonly known as Razorhurst.

I’ve always had an affinity with the Straight Razor (aka Cut Throat Razor)………………and I had to know more!

My research led me to an EXCELLENT book called “Razor” by Larry Writer. Sadly, it is now out of print and rare. The irony is that I borrowed a copy from Kings Cross Library, which is one of the suburbs that the razor gangs frequented. Coincidentally, the Library was hosting an Exhibition dedicated to the Razor Gangs of the 1920’s-30’s.

In this era, people could work around the law in justifying having a straight razor on their person. Furthermore, laws made it hard to prosecute an offender for using a straight razor.

I think this period of bloodshed can be summarized with an excerpt from the book “Razor” by Larry Writer (page 47)

“………….The razor is more effective than the revolver as a cash extractor. The sheen of its bright blade close to the cheek puts deadly fear into the heart of the victim…Razor gangs are terrorizing the underworld of Darlinghurst, that region of Bohemia, crime and mystery. The razors its members carry in their hands are feared far more than the revolver of the ordinary crook. Men who will defy the black muzzle quail before the bright blade held threateningly to their cheek. But even with their faces slashed open, victims refuse to speak when questioned by police. They know too well the fate that awaits them once the gang learns that they have allowed resentment to get the better of discretion. So they remain silent, and prefer to attempt revenge in their own way. It is all an underworld affair, to be settled in the underworld’s own drastic way and that is why a deep veil of mystery shrouds a carnival of bloodletting. Many have pledged themselves to “get” each other and there are at least two men who, should they meet face to face in their peregrinations, will stage a combat that should be short, sharp and utterly decisive…………”

From 1927 through to 1930 there were more than 500 recorded razor attacks, and these were the ones reported. I am certain there would be many more victims who kept silent.

So widespread was the use of the razor that in the late 1927 alone, (the early days of razor gang wars), police confiscated 66 razors from suspects searched in connections with crimes.

I think the point of this blog was not only to provide an interesting insight to a bygone era of Sydney, but also to show that a tool like the Straight razor, which a lot of “knife experts” scoff at its effectiveness in “combat” can be, and was used with devastating effect.

SPECIAL NOTE: The book “Razor” by Larry Writer is now out of print. Can I ask those who read this and are interested in works of this kind, to send an email to ELIZA….she works at the publishers of the book. If we can get enough requests, they may do a reprint of this FANTASTIC book.

You can contact the publishers Pan Macmillan at:

pansyd@macmillan.com.au

I’m pleased to announce that we scored the distributorship for this beauty.

It’s the current Military Issue Knife to the Jordanian Armed Forces. Complete with it’s crest.

Modeled closely to the shape of the traditional Jambiya; a knife which is synonymous to those that live in the Middle East.

The blade and handle configuration is PERFECT for F.F.S. applications.

Overall length – 13.5″ (33.3cm)

Blade Length – 7″ (18cm)

Top Edge – 4.75″ (12cm).  Comes blunt, but can be sharpened

Bottom Edge – 6.5″ (16.5)

Blade Thickness – 6/32″ (5mm)

Weight – 14.75 Ounces (390g)

Coating – DuPont Teflon

Handle – Injection molded Hard Rubber By ” ERGO ” in USA

What is a bonus here is that the knife is MADE IN SHEFFIELD, ENGLAND…….QUALITY.

The photo shows the blade lighter that it actually is.  The colour is closer to black.

More details to come:

Ray Floro

Thanks to Shawn McIntyre and James Seckold. We have finally received the prototype of the new FFS Knife design. This is made out of aluminium with a cord wrap. Of course the final “working” version will have great steel and micarta handles.

It feels fantastic and fast in the hands. A great advantage is that it is well suited for utility, hunting and “survival” functions……………….more information to come

Ray Floro

With the release of my DVD – The Essential Ray Floro, I have been receiving a lot of inquiries regarding the “Shot Timer” I use to develop non-telegraphic striking. Quite simply, the “Shot Timer” is an electronic device, that measure speed / reaction.

When the timer is set, it starts with a loud audible “beep”. In this moment, the timer commences.

The timer is then stopped when another LOUD sound is registered. It then gives the measurement when the timer was turned on, and when it was turned off.

The Shot Timer is used by pistol shooters that want to register their reaction or draw speed.
I was introduced to this valuable tool by Stephen Chan (who is the FFS representative in Indonesia). He did target and IPSC shooting, and used the timer to improve his abilities.

We were just toying with the idea of trying to measure how fast the various strikes were, so he suggested we use it.

The initial problem we had was finding some way of producing a loud “bang” so we could turn off the timer. We thought about balloons, but the thought of blowing a balloon for each strike did not appeal.
Having played “percussion” in a past life, I knew that a tambourine would cut through the sound, …….SUCCESS!!!!!!!!

The greatest benefit in using the timer is that it gives a quantifiable measure of how fast the speed and reaction is of the student’s actions. More importantly it helps to STOP them from telegraphing their strikes with their body. They have no choice but to wait for the “beep”, and only then can they react.

If they try to move before, by anticipating the beep…………they will actually score a SLOWER result. The great thing about the timer is that you place it on a setting that has a “random delay”……..so the beep is announced at varying times. Hence the student CANNOT anticipate the strike.

This is key to non-telegraphic striking, as when the students “anticipate” the beep; their body betrays them by the slight shift in weight……

There are several drills in my DVD that I go through, that takes full advantage of the timer.

What timer do I use…………….well; a student Stephen was kind enough to trade lessons for his timer. But alas, that timer has been retired, as an overly zealous student mistakenly stabbed the timer instead of the tambourine (WARNING NOTE: ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, tie a cord on the timer and wear it as a necklace).

The current timer I am using, I’m not completely happy with. It seems to have problems registering accurate measurements………so I won’t mention that brand.

One timer I am curious to try (and bear in mind, I have not personally tried it out) is the PACT Timer……….you can check them out here:

http://pact.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=17&Itemid=63

So……….is it around the $130.00 dollar mark to purchase one.

Well……my profession is to teach, so I DO use the timer day after day and it is one of the MOST VALUABLE tools I have to help develop the students non telegraphic strike. Plus the fact that it can be claimed as a tax deduction!

 

Ray Floro.

One of the more frequent questions that I am asked is:

“What knife do you prefer?”

Given the perfect situation, where one can LEGALLY carry a knife, and if I was only given ONE choice, my answer would be easy.

My personal choice would be the Randall Made Knives Model 18. 7 1/2 inch spear-point Stainless Steel blade, with saw-teeth spine and a hollow handle.

I have been enamored with this knife ever since I saw the movie “First Blood” (I know, I know).

But this knife was also prominently mentioned in David Steele’s book “Secrets of Modern Knife Fighting”, and glaringly recommended by Leroy Thompson’s book “Survival / Fighting Knives”. Coupled with my interest in Survivalism, I had to have the knife.

I have owed and sold at least 6 Model 18’s in my lifetime. Its appeal hasn’t waned one bit. In fact, I’m saving up to buy another this year (hopefully).

Carried by many elite members of the military, the Randall name has been a staple amongst those “In the know”. It has also achieved collector’s cult status that it is a 6 year wait if you order from Randall Made Knives directly.

A story that I should relate was an instance where a student of mine in the Australian Military was deployed in Iraq last year.

He carried on his webbing, one of the Randall Model 18’s that he “acquired” from me

On this particular day, he was working “checkpoint”. A group of US Soldiers was approaching his station. He had suspicions that these groups of US guys were Special Forces. Since they were wearing local “tribal” garb and by the weapons they were carrying.

There wasn’t much “conversation” with the Aussie and US troops in general, but as this group passed my student……..they actually stopped and doubled back to talk to him.

The US guys noticed the Randall Model 18 on my student’s web gear and wanted to have a little play with it since they’ve been pining for one.

Turns out that this group of US soldiers was part of the Delta Force assigned to that region.

There you go…..proof that the Randall IS recognized by Elite Military troops.

Is the Model 18 the best in the market? Not at all, there are many other makers out there that uses better steel, better designs and have better finishes. I guess it’s like the Harley Davidson. There are better makers out there. But like I said, the Randall name has developed a cult following, and me being an avid fan.

Other knives that I would also carry is the Camillus USAF Pilot Survival Knife (Camillus has since gone defunct, but not till I stocked up on at least 4 of these knives) and the other one is the Finnish Puukko (extremely sharp, timeless, simple design).

At present James Seckold is heading the design team to create the latest Floro Fighting Systems knife (stay tuned).

Like I’ve said before, I see knives as tools first, and there isn’t a week where I don’t find a use for this versatile tool.

I must stress IT IS ILLEGAL in my state to carry an edged weapon. In fact, technically, even the Swiss Army Knife would be illegal.

For me, to be caught with a knife, let alone using it against another person would be a legal nightmare.

All the prosecutor has to do is to search my name through “Google” and he would have a legal field day to build a case against me.

So why do I still learn / teach knife defense. For the IMPORTANT reason that to defend against an edged weapon, one should fully understand its capability.

Even more important, is that the skills and knowledge that I have accumulated is READILY transferred to be used with COMMON easily accessed, improvised weapons.

I believe that in some instances, it is this knowledge that may give you the only chance for survival.

My DVD – The Essential Ray Floro goes through various everyday items that I can rely on in lieu of the knife. It is just as effective, but more importantly, easier to defend in court when you are sued for protecting yourself and your loved ones.

 

Ray Floro

The Model 18 shown at right is a current-production model available in two blade lengths — 5.5″ and 7.5″. It is a dual-edged blade, with a three-quarter length sawtooth edge on top.

We are pleased to announce the first images of the NEW FFS KNIFE.

After many months of consultation between James Seckold and prominent Aussie Knife Maker ABS JS Shawn McIntyre. We are proud to show the prototype design.

Shawn will be working hard to produce the first “aluminium” version so that James and I can test it out.

Stay tuned for more updates

Ray Floro

Being in the industry that I am in, I am very fortunate to meet many people who share the same interest in edged weaponry and edged tools, collectors and users alike, who would talk hours about knife design materials and accessories

It is also a surprise that the majority of these people, who know all the nuances about knives, know nothing about sharpening knives.

It took me MANY years and a lot of money to finally settle on a sharpening method that I am happy and confident in.

I cringe at the memory of all those beautiful knives that I destroyed trying to attempt to sharpen them.

I have bought and tried nearly every existing sharpening system on the market. 

Some good, some absolutely hopeless.

So what do I PERSONALLY use these days for sharpening my edged pieces.

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